This weekend, the lovely Holly Willis reacted to a post we shared on our Facebook page about how to do a Smokey eye look. So what else could I do when I got to the shop today but prepare a little tutorial ? Hope you like it Holly, Kate, Alyssa, Sara, Marijke and everyone else !!!
Step one – PRIME !!!
Even though step one on all my makeup tutorials is to prime, it’s worth while repeating it here. Every great artist starts with a properly primed and prepared canvass and you should too !!! As well as drinking lots of water, adopting a good skincare regime and staying out of sunlight, an absolute essential for good makeup application is to use primer.
It won’t surprise you to learn that I personally use Younique primer, which you can get from my main site here, primarily because it’s a great mid price range product which gives a nice finish, but there are a number out there to suit all budgets – just be sure to choose one and use it. OK ?
Step two – choose your shade
Today I’m going to be working on Denise who has the most lovely shade of green eyes. Green (and brown eyes) are great to work on as a makeup artist as they suit a number of colour pallettes that makeup companies produce.
I’m using a mix of Palletes 1 and 2 from Youniques range of eye-shadows here today as they’re the backbone of my kit, but in general, you’ll find a single palette is ideal for creating your look. The only reason I’m using two pallettes on Denise today is that I wanted to use the mid shade of palette 2 to generate more of a contrast around her eye, which you’ll see later.
Step three – lets get started !!
To start with, I’m going to use shade 1 of palette 1 to apply the first base layer, using a shadow brush (I prefer to use this brush to start with, moving to a blending brush for the final stages). The reason for using this neutral colour today is to emphasise the eye definition which I’ll be applying in stage fourThe reason for using this neutral colour today is to emphasise the eye definition which I’ll be applying in stage four. The key point is that you don’t apply too much powder and to get it reasonably even (Don’t worry too much about it as we’ll be blending later). You want to let the colours do the work for you, rather than layer on layer upon layer after colour. This can cause flecks of shadow to drop of the eye onto the upper cheek area and make you look a little speckly. In general I apply two layers of each colour and certainly no more than three. If you find you’re using more, you’re probably using a low pigment colour content powder and it might be time to reconsider the brand that you’re using. I say this because lots of layers of makeup tend to drag the eye down. make you look older (sounds weird but it’s true) and make it look as if you are trying to hide something with your makeup. Ideally you want to keep it nice and light.
Stage four – eye definition
So, I’ve got a nice coloured even base, the next thing to do is to start defining the eyes. In order to match palette 1, I’m going to be using the prim chocolate shade of the Moodstruck precision pencil eyeliner below the area for the lower eyeliner, and the proper, dark chocolate shade of the Moodstruck Liquid eyeliner for the upper and lower eye edge definition. Two things to note here are that you want your pencil to be a soft “kohl” style one, because you’re going to be smudging this out later and the eyeliner itself needs to be capable of generating a really hard line, in order to get the edge definition to blend into. As you’ll see in the picture on the left, I’ve given Denise a little bit of a “cat eye” ( eyeliner which extends past the outer edge of the eye)
The reason I’ve done this is to give a edge to blend the main part of the eyeshadow into, past the eye, which will extend it and make the look more dramatic. You’ll also see that I accidentally went a bit wonky with the pencil in the corner of the eye. If the same happens to you, don’t worry about it, the smudging will cover all later !!!! Although some makeup tutorials suggest applying the eyeliner first and then the pencil, I personally prefer the other way around, as I find the edge definition holds a little better. But that’s just personal preference.
Step five – Little bit of smudging !!
Now that we’ve got the eye defined, we just need to smudge the lower pencil line. Taking a clean brush (this bits really important, you don’t want to drag in colour from other areas of the eye) lightly brush over the pencil line that you applied in stage four. You might need to add another layer of pencil at this stage to build up a little bit of colour as you’ll probably find that the brush will pull some colour off. Another good reason for using a clean brush (or a ear bud) at this stage is that it allows you to correct any mistakes that you may have made (remember that wonky edge ? – GONE !!!)
The shape you’re aiming to create blends out to nothing at either edge and about 3-4mm depth in the middle. I personally find it easier to blend from the inner eye to the outer edge in a smooth gentle motion, adding the odd spot of pencil in the middle to get the shape in the picture. Don’t be afraid to take it to the edge of the cats eye that you created earlier to extend the eye. It will all make sense in a bit !!!
Step six – bring the colour !!
Edges done, its time to add the colour which is the signature of the smokey eye look. Going back to palette 1, I’m using shades 5 and 6 from the pallete and shade 4 off palette 2 for Denise’s look today. The trick here is that I’m applying the darker shade first and then the lighter shades over the top of it. Again, some tutorials that you see will show a transition from light to dark, but I prefer to apply the other way around. The reason being that it adds depth to the lighter colours and makes the blending that we’ll be doing later really shine. You’ll see in the picture that to start with, I’m only applying the darker colour from the middle of the eyelid out to the edge of the cats eye that I created in stage four. You should also notice that I’ve applied it in a taper on the front edge.
The reason for this is that it opens the inner eye up and creates a more natural shape for the eyelid. Next, I’m using shades five from palette 2 and shade four from palette 1 on the inner edge of the eye. Although I’m using three colours here for my colours, most Smokey eye looks are a blend of two colours directly from a single palette. If you’d prefer, leave out shade four from palette 1 (You’ll save yourself a little blending later) Again, a couple of key points of this stage are, use a clean brush and don’t take the lighter colours all the way to the inside of the eye. Remember, you’re not looking for smooth transitions at this point, as you’re going to be blending later.
Step seven – Blend girl blend !!! Get the look !!!
Edges defined, colour applied, its time for the most fun bit, blending !!! This is where you bland and smudge (carefully) in a range of stokes across the eyelid. You can also be a little daring and take it up into the eyebrow area as you can see here. The nice thing about using shades four and five as I did here is that it creates the “shimmer” that you can see in the picture, which lightens the whole overall eye. For blending, I recommend you use a specialist brush, like the one in the link, but I also use blending buds occasionally, depending on the consistency of the powder that I’m blending.
You’ll get to work out which one works best for you with practice and depending on which makeup brand you use.
Finish the look with some of Younique’s epic lash mascara to really add to the look – you wont regret it !!!
There really isn’t a product like this on the market at the moment – it’s just that Younique !!!!
Get yours here – You’ll thank me later !!!