We had a fun email from Amy today, who wanted to learn a little more about how to apply blusher. I’m not going to go into all the details, (it was a very funny letter) but suffice it to say, she is fed up looking like a bit of a tart. (and not the scrummy type that you service with custard) Although I am not a fan of blusher personally ( I prefer highlighting and sculpting) there’s no denying that for a lot of women, it’s a make-up essential, so it seemed only right and proper that I wrote a little about how to apply your blusher correctly.
The key thing about highlighting, sculpting and blushing (was that the right way to say that ?) is to work out what your face shape is before you start. Take a look at the diagram below and then pick the one that most looks like your face shape.
Most makeup artists will tell you that when it comes to applying your makeup and highlighting, Oval faces are often considered the ideal face shape. This is because they have prominent cheekbones and a forehead that is slightly wider than the chin. Heart shaped faces have a wide forehead and high cheekbones, and the face tapers to a narrow chin. Square faces have a forehead that is roughly the same width as the cheekbones and chin, while round faces are as wide as they are long. Long faces, or “rectangular” as it is sometimes called, are similar to oval and square-shaped faces. The only difference is, the face is longer and less wide. Your forehead, cheeks and jawline should all be pretty much the same width. If you have a triangular-shaped face, your chin will be narrow and pointed and your high cheekbones will be your most prominent feature. So with this in mind. How do you make the most of your features with a little blusher ? Well, the key point is “Less is more” You don’t need to apply so much that it’s visible from a distance. You want your blusher to be subtle, elegant and delicate. Now lets take a look at how to WHERE to apply it.
Oval faces – sweep your blush over your cheekbones. You can easily find your cheekbone with your fingers – aim to place the colour just above the bone rather than towards the hollow beneath it to help raise the height of your cheekbone.
Heart shaped faces – because your face can appear pointy, we need to soften the edges so it appears more like an oval. Apply blush to the outer corner of your cheekbone, starting by your ear and ending at a point below the outer corner of your eye. Also add a touch of colour by your temples, towards the centre of your forehead, to help balance the width of your forehead with your chin.
Square faces – your cheekbones are the same width as your chin, so to help define them apply your blush slightly below the cheekbone. Blush in the hairline will help soften the edges of your face.
Round faces – try not to use pearlised or highly reflective blushers as these reflect the light well and make a surface appear more round, which we want to avoid – matte blushers would be best for you. Sweep your blush from the ear down the cheekbone towards the mouth. Add a little touch of blush to the chin and blend it well to make your face appear longer.
Long faces – Apply blush on cheekbones below the outer corners of the eyes and blend well. Be sure the blush never extends lower than the tip of the nose.
Triangular faces – Blush should be applied in a sideways V on the cheekbones. Blend up from your cheekbones to your temple and then extend the blush over your brow a bit toward the centre of your forehead. This will help to balance the width of your forehead with the rest of your face.
Which is the best blusher to use though ?
Cream blusher – Apply the satin-like, creamy, non-greasy texture with fingers for an anti-ageing effect. It blends beautifully over naked skin or foundation leaving a hint of flattering colour. Perfect for all skin-types and drier skins will love it the most as it feels comfortable and non-drying on the skin.
Liquid blusher – This is probably the easiest type to misuse, as it’s easy to over-apply. That said though, the silicone in these types of product, makes it virtually rub-off proof and water-resistant.
Powder blusher – Sheer colour, some with shimmer finish. Smooth, satiny powder finish that floats over skin. Creates a soft transparency that lasts for hours.