Ok ladies, lets talk about one of those challenges we all face when making ourselves up, the perenial problem of hiding beard shadow. When you’re just starting out, finding your look and experimenting, it can often seem like a quick fix to use a thick, heavy or dark concealer to cover it, but the truth is, you’ll quickly find that’s the worst thing you can do.
Why ? Well, if you go for a thick heavy concealer, this tends to create a heavy, cakey look that ends up drawing more attention to the very area you want to hide, or if you go dark, then a difficult to blend “fake tan” look that disappears somewhere down your neck – not pretty !!!
The good news is though that with a bit of knowledge and most of all practice, you can avoid the pitfalls and achieve a natural, feminine look which covers your beard shadow too !!! Ideal !!!
In my previous blog post about Dermablend, I talked about Dermablend and how to integrate this ever faithful product into your makeup routine. But if you dont like the product (sometimes it just doesn’t work out) or find it a little expensive, then this article is for you !! Shall we take a look the products we need and get started ?
If you’re looking to use mainstream high street makeup products, rather than rely on Dermablend, then the most important thing to get right is your corrector. The trick here is some basic knowledge about the colour wheel (remember that from school ?) Even after shaving, most ladies will be left with a witness of beard, which will tend to have a bluish tint to it. So the trick is to conceal this by choosing a colour from the opposite side of the colour wheel, balanced to match your skin tone. Thinking about the colour wheel on the right
If your beard tint is Blue-green you’ll naturally be looking at the “red-orange” wedge as the opposite. But, because we’re talking makeup and not paint, you need to come round to the red “wedge” to make your choice. Next, you’ll need to select a segment from the red section to reflect your skin tone.
- If you have a light skin tone, then you’re looking for a concealer that has a pink colour to it.
- If you have a darker skin tone, you;ll need to choose a concealer from the outer segment – ie, red.
Although there are purposefully designed concealers and correctors out there, a lot of girls prefer to use a matt lipstick for their corrector. Although you get a wider choice of colours by using lipstick, they do tend to have seasonal availability whch can make it frustrating if you run out in between fashion seasons.
Now you’ve chosen your shade, you’ll want to apply it wont you ? There are a couple of ways to do this, really does depend on your personal preference. Speaking personally, I prefer to use a small makeup brush, like the Younique one you can find in their face brush kit here and then then just dab it on, stippling it over the appropriate area that you want to camouflage. The reason I prefer to use a brush is that it gets my hand out of the way and lets me see what I’m doing in the mirror, rather than use a latex wedge as some people do, which I find tends to obscure what I’m doing. Like I said though, its just personal choice.
The next thing I want to talk about is concealer. Ahhhhh Concealer !!!! Where would I be without you my friend !?!?!?!? Lol !!!! While it would be nice to think otherwise, the truth is that as we get older, our skin develops natural blemishes that we want to camouflage before we put on our foundation. Now that we’ve dealt with the area of stubble, we’ll want to work in a light covering of concealer into the surrounding areas.
Again, there are a couple of ways to apply it, some girls I’ve spoken to prefer to dab it on straight from the container (the ones that tend to look like lipstick, such as Rimmels hide the blemish or Max Factors mastertouch eyeliner pencils particularly suit this technique).
For the undereye area, be sure to select a shade of concealer that’s no more than one or two shades lighter than your natural skin tone; for other parts of your face, select a concealer that matches the color of your foundation exactly.
I swap around my concealers from time to time because I have sensitive skin, currently, my personal favourite concealer at the moment is Youniques Touch Mineral Skin Perfecting Concealer which again, speaking personally I prefer to apply using the wider concealer brush from the kit above. Just squirt a blob on the brush and blend it into the areas that need a little help in camouflaging those tell tale areas .
Now that you’ve covered all those tell-tale signs, its time to move onto your foundation. For optimum beard coverage – I apply my foundation in two stages. Firstly, I use a liquid Foundation from younique which matches my concealer. This is a great foundation to use, it’s a medium coverage foundation, which is high in pigment content, rather than a heavy creamy foundation. The great thing about this foundation is that you can apply several light, thin layers, which helps build coverage, in a controlled even way, rather than put “all your eggs in one basket” with a high coverage, one coat foundation, which can look a bit unnatural.
A good trick worth remembering for getting the right colour foundation is to always try the tester sample colour on the back of your hand and then walk outside to see it in a different lighting condition. Stores oftne feature brighter lighting around the makeup counter and concessions, to make the product appear more colourful. You should also take a disposable cotton bud with you so that you can dispense a sample on it and apply it to your jaw line, if the foundation appears invisible, then you’ve found your shade !
You’ll often hear makeup guides talk about the undertone your skin, in terms of it being neutral cool or warm. But what does this mean ? Well, if you’re cool, the veins on you inner wrist appear blue and you’ll tend to turn a flushed pink in the sun, or even burn easily. If this sounds like you, you’ll want to try a foundation that has a rosier or redder base to it. If you’re warm, the veins on the inner wrist will appear green and you’ll probably be one of those lucky girls who turn a lovely bronze colour in the sun, so choose a foundation that has a golden or yellow base. iF you’re neutral, you’ll have an even number of blue and green veins on your inner wrist you can pretty much pull of any shade and not just with your foundation either, you can also do the same eyeshadow amd foundation – result !!!!
For the best results I would personally always recommend that you always apply with a foundation brush instead of your fingers or a sponge. Brush on a light layer and allow it to try. If you want more coverage, go back and stipple additional foundation over anyareas of concern. Easy !!!
4 Pressed Powder
So by now, you should be in pretty good shape and probably, thinking that you’re done. But just hold on a minute before u call for a cab, climbtose killer heels and get the party started !!!! You’ll just need to fix your powder, (mainly for resilience) but also just to give you a little extra coverage. Choose a powder with pigment that complements your foundation as opposed to a translucent version, which will make any last witness marks shine through, rather than conceal it.
Appy itl with a large powder brush and dab on a generous layer of powder. Don’t use stroking motions or you’ll streak your foundation !!!
And that ladies, is all there is to it !!!